Silly Comparison: Borobudur vs Angkor Wat

Comparing Borobudur with Angkor Wat is silly as they are simply incomparable. Both are different to some extent and beautiful in their own way. To help your imagination, picture the Statue of Liberty and then New York City, and that's how you would compare! Borobudur is a huge single monument, whilst many temples make up the Angkor Wat compound.

Sure thing, these two ancient wonders were built by great civilizations. The beautiful Angkor Wat is located in the city of Angkor, the capital of Khmer Empire whose territory covered the modern-day of Vietnam, Myanmar, Thailand and Malaysia, to which they ruled from Angkor in Siem Reap, Cambodia. They constructed a lot of temples throughout the city and one fascinating was the Angkor Wat. 

The splendor Borobudur was built under the reign of King Samaratungga of the Sailendras, a powerful kings dynasty of Medang Kingdom, Java, Indonesia. Within walking distance from Borobudur there are two small temples that possibly associated with it, Mendut and Pawon. Not sure why locals abandoned the area, but it says that they moved away after a series of eruptions of  the nearby volcano, Mt. Merapi. Imagine if it hadn't erupted, this dynasty would possibly have built more temples that could have been a great ancient city like Angkor!

Borobudur

Angkor Wat

Anyway, based on my admiration to both of them, and little knowledge, I can't help making a general comparison, not to pick the best one, but just as a thought that I try to put into words. Some of you who are confused to pick where to go, this might help, or, just enjoy it if you end up even more confused! :D

Structure
Considering the repetitive earthquakes, the volcanic eruptions from the nearby, one of the world's most active volcanoes, and the long period of abandonment, it goes without saying that Borobudur has a very sturdy structure. The exotic Angkor Wat is vast covering 2.6 sq km with a trench filled with water surrounds the temple complex. The temples of Angkor Wat are tall and slim. Borobudur is a giant single temple. Angkor Wat is recognized as the world's largest religious building, while Borobudur is the single largest Buddhist temple in the world. Go into detail, Borobudur has more exquisite reliefs that wrap around the temple that make them like thousands of pages of a picture book telling you from the biography of Buddha to the daily life of locals back then. And you might won't trust my poor sense of art, they look more complicatedly carved than those of Angkor Wat. 

Ambience
In the 8th century Borobudur was built and Angkor Wat followed 4 centuries later, or rather in the 12th century. But this doesn't guarantee that Borobudur has an older look than Angkor Wat, thanks to the multiple restorations and the decent maintenance. To my eye Angkor Wat looks older with the moss-covered panels and the trees growing out of the temple ruins, not to mention it remains the center of religious worship on a daily basis. This place has a strong character and magical atmosphere, the feeling is there! Unlike Angkor Wat, Borobudur is not considered as a religious building, but as a national monument, and although rare occasions like ceremonies on Vesak Day (the birthday of Buddha) are held annually, but generally it still feels empty there.

Surroundings
Sits on top of a flattened hill, Borobudur gives you a peaceful, spectacular mountainous scenery. Enjoying beautiful sunrise from the top of Borobudur accompanied by hundreds of bell-shaped stupas and Buddha statues has been referred as one of the world's best spots to watch sunrise. Whereas Angkor Wat is situated on a flat, forested land. Kind of boring. However, outside Angkor Wat you will see other amazing different temples. It takes couple of days to a week to do all the temples, whereas Borobudur can be done within one day.

Cool fact
Both are UNESCO's World Heritage Sites. Che Guevara loved Borobudur! He visited this temple on the sidelines of his state visit to Indonesia in the late 1950s. Angkor Wat seems more popular these days following the success of Angelina Jolie's Tomb Raider, plus the fact that its image adorns the national flag of Cambodia explaining how important it is to the nation. Oh, one more, and I think this is out of ordinary, is there anywhere on earth where you can have your face appear on the entrance pass? I guess nowhere but at Angkor Wat! :D

Pricey but cool :D

El Che at Borobudur (Source: Kompas)

If the sun bothers you, I would suggest you to bring an umbrella as the sun is usually stinking hot in both temples. Exploring Angkor Wat and surroundings can be done by a tuk tuk (auto rickshaw). My friend and I hired a tuk tuk the whole day to go around the temple and the downtown of Siem Reap at USD 12, just don't forget to bargain if you want to take one. You can reach Borobudur and two other nearby temples, Mendut and Pawon, from the nearby bus station on foot, hire a horsecart or a rickshaw at USD 8 more or less, this one too, don't forget to bargain first as they don't have the fixed price.

I love Borobudur and Angkor Wat and have always wanted to return to these Southeast Asian pride to enjoy their beauty deeper. These are the places that you knew you already loved before you saw them in real. The places that offer you a great trip back in time worth taking that you can learn a lot from. 

Hello Blue Sky! =)

I'm a skywatcher but I don't stare up at the sky often. At first I looked up and saw the sky at night, the shining moonlight, to prove what someone had said about the full moon that always reminded him of me which I found insulting considering how rough the surface of the moon is haha =P. Well, no, I just love imagining myself being an astronaut who could travel through the outer space seeing stars at close range and picking them as souvenirs. Every now and then I take my 3-year-old niece to see the moon and the star(s) from the balcony though it's getting harder and harder to see even one tiny little star in Jakarta skies. I had never given a deep look at the skies during the day though, not until my former client questioned about the Jakarta grayish-white sky, "It's very sunny here but why does the sky look a little cloudy? Is it always like that?". It was a simple question but a tricky one as well. It goes without saying that it had a connection with the bad air quality, or, one of the signs that the rain was coming. How often that occurred was a mystery for me and she made me promise to observe the sky more.

The number of motor vehicles increases year in year out affecting not only the traffic but also the air quality. The vehicle emissions contribute most significantly to Jakarta's air pollution. The legendary traffic jam problem making the air quality even worse. One of the obvious results of the air pollution is that the sky looks pale most of the time. It's rare to see a bright blue sky here like today! It was stinking hot, as described in the following weather report:

People preferred being inside their comfortable, air-conditioned rooms to melting in the sun. But hey Jakartans, no matter where you spent your day today, either staying inside or rolling around outside, you will agree with me that you enjoyed it a lot when the fluffy white clouds drifting by in the clear blue sky! It was a beautiful view, wasn't it?! =)

I wish we had this sky color everyday. I don't think it's late to reduce the heavily polluted air and get this pleasant view by start doing little things to contribute to a better and healthier environment, say, walking, using bicycle, taking bus, and growing plants. The local government should open more green spaces (look how few and far between the public parks are!) and improve the poor public transportation and its infrastructure to lure more people to opt for it. Creating bike lanes all over the city should be considered too. I believe there are a lot of people outside who want to be healthier by using their bikes on a daily basis, but with the current traffic condition in Jakarta, they could die anytime on the road. The long and the short of it, there are many options to cut the amount of pollution released into the air and make Jakarta a city worth living in.

West Sumatera... Rancak Bana!

I can't believe I had been on hiatus from writing for almost two years since the last time I posted on here. Ah, so many things happened to me, the writer's block, the hectic life, the fight against my own self :D the procrastination, and the biggest part of it, the laziness, have stolen my power to write. Somehow, returning here had always been a massive call for me, so here I am! =)

***

Let's start with an impossibly forgettable one-week trip to Sumatera Barat (West Sumatera) in late January - early February, 2011 (I know it was more than a year ago but you can trust my vivid memory :D)!
Don't even get me started on this! I didn't expect anything on my trip to this province as I hadn't heard much about this place before. But, it turned out to be the best place I've ever been to so far (please note that I have only been to a few places :D). Anyway, for my Indonesian folks, we all know that West Sumatera is identical with its irresistibly delicious food, but really, there are more than just rendang, nasi kapau, sambal balado, sate padang and other tempting food that will make your stomach burst. West Sumatera has got it made a complete package of a perfect vacation could be; beautiful, friendly people, plentiful lodgings, safe, and accessible. Pack your bags and I will take you to The Land of Minangkabau! Vamos!

West Sumatera Map.
Route: Padang (airport) - Bukittinggi (Ngarai Sianok, Lubang Jepang, Bundo Kanduang Park, Fort de Kock, Jam Gadang, Pasar atas, Pasar Bawah, Danau Maninjau) - Payakumbuh (Lembah Harau) - Padang - Sikuai Island - Solok (Danau Singkarak) 

Hello Padang!
After having a-90-minute flight from Jakarta we finally landed at Padang's Minangkabau International Airport, the major gateway that connects the province with anywhere else outside. Padang is the capital city of West Sumatra, but our first destination was another city named Bukittinggi, located some 3 hours away from the capital. Oh, I should introduce my travel mate for this trip, my dearest one and only Aulia, my partner in crime since 2002. She's originally from Bukittinggi, but yes we still got lost!

As soon as we landed and got out of the airport, some people flocked to us at the same time, formed a hindrance, "Wait wait wait, are we celebrities or what?! We had no idea we're this famous here!!" :O Oh, very well, they offered us their shared airport transfer services, it's called Travel. If you take this type of service you have to share with other people and it will only depart when it fills up or at least almost full. Turning your back on them or saying nothing won't make them go away from you. Reject FIRMLY!


Hey Ho, Let's Go to Bukittinggi!
We took Damri, an official airport shuttle bus service to start our journey. This bus doesn't go to other cities but only connects the capital city with its airport. I was sitting next to the friendly driver and had a little chat with him. He advised us to take a minivan to reach Bukittinggi direct and dropped us off on the street where the minivan passed by.

Inside Ayah, the fully packed minivan.

Traveling from Padang to Bukittingi is best to do during the day when everything is visible because beautiful scenery on the long, winding, and uphill road awaits you. Forests, mountains, hills, villages, old railway bridges and waterfalls are too impressive to pass up. Fresh mountain breeze is another heartwarming thing you will feel. This simply had us on the edge of our seats right from the beginning till we got off.

Hello Bukittinggi!
Bukittinggi (locals call it Bukit), located in the highlands, is the major travel destination in West Sumatera for the cool, pleasant weather, beautiful nature and rich history. Lodgings are dime a dozen. Public transportation is reliable enough, and surprisingly, no rip-offs! =) People are friendly and helpful, don't hesitate to ask! Most importantly, it's safe to be anywhere in Bukittinggi.

Ngarai Sianok (Sianok Canyon) was our first place see. The spectacular beauty of this canyon can be enjoyed from Taman Panorama (Panorama Park) that overlooks the canyon. Two high cliffs split the canyon into two parts where a river flows through it. There are a lot of monkeys around the park, but don't worry they're too friendly to bother you.

Ngarai Sianok, you took my breath away...

Another thing to do on this park is going downstairs to check out a network of underground bunkers and tunnel called Lubang Jepang (The Japanese Tunnel). It's located 40 meters below ground level, 1.45 km long with a width of 2 m or so. Built by Indonesian slaves at the order of the Japanese in 1942 - 1945 during their occupation of Indonesia in World War II, it served as a defense system with some compartments such as jail, ammunition storage, military barrack, medical center and so on. If you want to go inside make sure you are not alone since the tunnel route is kind of confusing. We got lost when we were trying to find the exit door after following some misleading exit signs.

It's not as spooky as it seems but it's enough to make your hair stand on end

Bukittinggi is often associated with Jam Gadang (The Big Clock), a clock tower built by the Dutch colonial rule in the early 1900s. The hour hands are featured in roman numerals, but one unique fact is that for the no of four, instead of "IV" it's written "IIII". As an icon, it's strategically situated in a square where locals, street hawkers, buskers, and tourists gather.  Two big traditional markets, Pasar Atas and Pasar Bawah (Upper Market and Lower Market), are just a stone's throw from the square. Just a reminder, being there can burn a hole in your pocket for the delicious food, souvenirs, candies, snacks, handicrafts, toys, t-shirts and so forth. A park, Bundo Kanduang Park, is within walking distance from the square. This park includes a replica of Rumah Gadang (The Big House, a traditional communal house of the indigenous people of West Sumatera, the Minangkabau or simply the Minang), a zoo, and a fort built by the Dutch colonial government called Fort de Kock in which nothing left, only the name remains. Forget this park, fresh horse shits scattered everywhere!

Hey, that's the Big Ben of Bukittinggi!

Now, let's experience tranquility in the countryside! I'll take you to see a picturesque lake named Maninjau. This lake is so beautiful to the point that the first president of Indonesia, Sukarno, wrote a pantun (Malay traditional poetry that employs rhyme scheme a-b-a-b) to express his admiration. Clear blue sky meets shimmering blue lake surrounded by blue hills... it's blue, blue, blue and blue as far as the eyes can see. Reaching this lake is another exciting story. To get there you have to drive down the 44 hairpin turns from the higher land all the way down to the lower land, hence this route is called Kelok 44 (44 Bends). Test your resistance of motion sickness here! :D

What happened: We took a bus to Lake Maninjau, but we got lost here, not too far from the lake. We were so disappointed in the kenek (the driver's assistant) as he didn't let us know in the first place that he hadn't known where to drop us off to see the lake. We rushed out of  the bus a bit angrily and... WOW! This view took us by surprise! Right in front of  us! @_@

Jangan makan Arai Pinang (Do not eat Arai Pinang)
Kalau tidak makan sirih hijau (Without a green betel)
Jangan datang ke Ranah Minang (Do not come to the Land of Minang)
Kalau Tidak singgah ke Maninjau (Without stopping by at Maninjau)
-Sukarno-

I Left My Heart in Lembah Harau...
This is one of my favorite spots in West Sumatera! We went further outside Bukittinggi to another area by the name of Payakumbuh where we were captivated by a refreshingly scenic beauty of Lembah Harau (Harau Valley). The Harau is an off beaten track valley where lush green rice fields and waterfalls flanked by high, steep rocky cliffs. Trekking, bumping into wild animals or just hanging around the paddy fields merging with nature, life slows down here for sure. If you'd like to stay overnight there is a lodging, Lembah Echo, consists of some cottages in traditional architecture, but not sure about the rate and the quality as we didn't ask further, we were day-trippers and only came there to ask if we were allowed to take some pictures outside. :D

The Harau is just around the corner!

The sense of serenity...

Hello (Again) Padang!
We returned to Padang to spend our last 3 nights there after staying for 3 nights in the house Aulia's relative in Bukittinggi. I personally think that Padang is less interesting that other places in West Sumatera. It's hot, some drivers were not as good as their words, though the people were helpful enough but they were not as friendly as the people of Bukittinggi. I don't know but it's just an ordinary city that failed to impress me. Probably it's because we didn't explore it a lot since we had no time to do so. We were there for breakfast, a little walk, dinner and overnighting. We spent most of our time outside the city. We stayed in a budget hotel, Benyamin Hotel, that has a strategic location in the city close to the post office, the pier, the banks, the park and the police station. Our affordably less-than-4-dollar room per night was small and very basic with a small internal bathroom, a small TV, a small bed, and a small fan... everything was small :D. Well, I don't care about lodging when I'm traveling as I'm always outside and only return to sleep.

Our last two destinations were Sikuai Island and Singkarak Lake. Sikuai Island is a resort island located about 45 minutes away by motor boat from Dermaga Wisata Bahari (Wisata Bahari Pier) in Pelabuhan Muaro (Muaro Port). It's a small private island with a natural forest in the middle of it where New Sikuai Island, the one and only resort, manages this island. We took a one-day tour (± 6 hours) for Rp 300,000/pax (less than USD 35) including return boat transfer and lunch box. This island is a paradise! As soon as you get off the boat you will be greeted by a smooth white sand beach, crystal clear water and shady coconut palms. Explore the island by walking down the jogging track then you will see huge rocks and even a smoother white sand beach, as smooth as baby powder! It only takes about an hour walk around the island that has monkeys, birds, and a if you're "lucky" enough, a big lizard.

Let's soak up the sun!

If you've ever heard about Tour de Singkarak, you probably know about this place. The international annual road bicycle racing held in West Sumatera took its name from a lake there, Danau Singkarak (Singkarak Lake). With some 20 km long and 7 km wide make this lake the largest in the province. This huge crater lake is located exactly by the side of the road, thus if you want to enjoy it you just need to pull over. There are a lot of restaurants alongside the road where they also rent out traditional boats and duck-shaped boats. With the fresh air, blue water, and blue mountain surroundings, imagine going for a long walk or cycling! :)

Relax and unwind...

What's What

• We moved around everywhere by public transportation like bus and angkot (minivan). They're reliable enough and safe, besides the drivers/drivers' assistants are helpful and informative. Notice that most of these buses and minivans stop operating at 9 pm. In general, the road condition in the region is good.
• The cuisine of West Sumatera, commonly called Padang food or Minang food, is universally known in Indonesia and beyond as delicious food. The typical of the food, might cause a problem to your stomach, is strong of coconut milk and spicy. When you're in a Padang/Minang restaurant, you don't have to order. A waiter will serve steamed rice, a bowl of water to wash your hand (yes, bare-hand eating is Indonesian culture) and a complete set of side dishes such as beef, chicken, shrimp, fish, curry, vegetable and many more, all on your table. You will be charged from what you have eaten. 
• If you're in Bukittinggi, give Nasi Kapau (Kapau Rice) a shot! Go to Pasar Bawah and you will find dozens of Nasi Kapau stalls. Although they're a bit pricey for food coming out from such small stalls, but they taste very tasty! Nasi Kapau is steamed rice topped with various side dishes (beef, chicken, egg, curry etc.). Unlike in a Padang/Minang restaurant, the food seller will serve your food according to what side dishes you wish to have. 
• Another good food, worth trying, is Sate. There are a lot of kinds of sate in Indonesia. Each region has different taste as a result of different ingredients in the making. Still in Bukittinggi, try Sate Lesir! This particular sate is made out of cooked diced beef, marinated, skewered on bamboo sticks, grilled over charcoal fire, sprinkled serundeng (sauteed grated coconut) and served with thick curry sauce. The restaurant is named after the owner, Lesir. Everyone knows this restaurant as it's strategically situated in front of the bus station. To be honest, I didn't give it a try as I don't eat beef. I'm putting it here based on my observation that I saw myself how people didn't stop coming to that restaurant either for dine-in or takeaway. Plus, Aulia who finally had it again after so many years, enjoyed the food so much, she was like in heaven! Make sure you come as early as you can because they often sold out. First time we went there they had already closed and it was only 4 pm! The following day we came at around 10 am.
• West Sumatera has a predominantly Muslim population. Avoid wearing revealing clothes such as tank tops or hot pants. T-shirts and knee-length shorts are okay.
• Benyamin Hotel doesn't allow unmarried couples to stay in the same room. The hotel staff told us most of the hotels in West Sumatera stipulated the same rule. This doesn't apply to foreigners though.
• The Minang people are scattering all over the country and a lot of them are well known as successful merchants. They sure know how to trade, therefore never hesitate to haggle! Especially if you are able to speak some basic words or phrases in their language, you will get a better price.

My trip to West Sumatera was more than I had bargained for. The beauty and the hospitality were beyond question. There was a time that I had to say goodbye but I promised myself to return someday. =)